As an Erlanger commercial roof repair contractor, we trace each leak to its seam, curb, drain, or edge and fix the source on membrane and metal roofs.
Leak traced to its source
Insulation checked around it
Matching membrane and tape
Photos of every fix
An Erlanger commercial roof repair contractor looks at how far the damage spreads, because a repair fits a few spots and a worn-out roof calls for more.
| What We Find | Fits a Repair | Points to Recover or Replace |
|---|---|---|
| Leak locations | One or two seams, curbs, or drains | New leaks every season in new places |
| Insulation around the leak | Dry beyond the wet spot | Wet across large areas |
| Seams | One lap or corner open | Laps opening across the field |
| Flashing | One curb or wall pulled loose | Shrinkage pulling flashing everywhere |
| Metal panels | Some loose screws or one open lap | Rust-through across many sheets |
| Ponding | A clogged strainer | Water standing for days over wide areas |
Most leaks on a low-slope roof start at the details around the edges of the field, so the hunt starts there.
Curbs and walls are where most low-slope leaks begin. Base flashing pulls away from the curb corner, counterflashing loosens, or the membrane shrinks until it bridges the joint, and rain blowing against the unit runs straight under it and down into the building.
Usually Means: Rebuilt base flashing and counterflashing at that curb, with the boards beside it checked.
A single open seam on TPO gets cleaned and rewelded; on EPDM, primed and retaped.
Loose clamping rings and missing strainers let water bypass the bowl and run under the sheet.
Wind lifting a gravel stop or coping cap opens the perimeter where the membrane ends.
R-panel screws with cracked washers leak along the shank onto purlins and ceiling tile.
Repairs are matched to the roof system, using material that bonds to what is already there.
TPO laps are rewelded with hot air after a clean wipe, and EPDM laps get primer and seam tape rolled firm. Punctures take a patch of the same membrane.
Failed base flashing comes off, the corner is rebuilt with membrane run up the curb or wall, and counterflashing is refastened over it so water sheds past the joint.
Strainers and clamping rings get replaced, scupper liners are resealed, and gutters are cleared so water leaves the deck the way it was meant to.
Worn screws are swapped one size up, open end laps are scraped and resealed with butyl tape, and rusted-through panels get matching sections cut in.
A good repair stops water at its entry point and buys time to plan the bigger decision.
Water travels along laps and deck flutes, so the ceiling stain rarely sits under the actual opening.
Tracing the path back to the seam or curb means the fix lands where water gets in.
Every rain through an open detail soaks more insulation around it and adds to a future tear-off.
Cut-out wet boards get replaced at the repair, keeping the wet area from growing.
Shrunken base flashing at curbs and walls leaves gaps wind-driven rain runs straight through.
New base flashing and refastened counterflashing close the joint at that curb or wall.
Patches done over years with mixed materials make it hard to see whether the roof is wearing out.
Photos and notes from each repair build the leak history that guides repair or replace later.
Call and tell us where the drip lands, what sits on the roof above it, and whether it shows during every rain or only in wind.
Finding the true entry point comes before any patch goes down.
We start inside at the stain, then walk the roof above it: seams, curbs, pipes, drains, and edge metal upslope of the leak. Core cuts near the spot show how far water has spread.
Laps, flashing corners, and fastener rows are probed and checked in the direction water would travel. Photos mark the opening so you can see what the crew found.
Soaked insulation around the opening is removed to dry board, and any soft deck under it is noted for repair before new material goes back in.
TPO gets welded patches, EPDM gets primer and tape, metal gets new screws, sealant, or panel sections, and flashing is rebuilt at curbs and walls.
Repaired seams are probed, drains cleared, and the inside stain marked. After the next rain the spot gets rechecked, and the notes go into your roof history.
Some roofs have more failing than a repair can cover. These pages show the next steps.
Repeat leaks from ponding mean the slope needs rebuilding with tapered insulation and crickets.
See flat roof replacement
Once laps open across the whole field, a new welded membrane replaces patch after patch.
Read about new TPO roofs
Rust-through across many panels moves a metal roof from screw swaps to new sheets.
See metal roof installsAnswers on finding leaks, what repairs fix, and when repairs stop making sense.
Most curb leaks come from base flashing pulled away at a corner or counterflashing that has loosened. Rain blowing against the unit runs behind the flashing, then along the curb into the building. Rebuilding the flashing and checking the insulation beside the curb stops it.
Water runs along laps, purlins, and steel deck flutes before it finds a way down. A stain under the middle of a bay can start at a curb or seam well upslope. Tracing starts at the stain and works uphill on the roof along the path water would take.
Clearing a clogged strainer and rebuilding a loose drain ring fixes ponding caused at the drain. Low spots from a sagged deck or crushed insulation need tapered boards or crickets, and that work usually happens with a recover or replacement rather than a spot repair.
Repair fits when leaks stay at a few seams, curbs, or drains and the insulation around them is dry. Replacement fits when wet insulation, opening seams, and new leaks spread across large parts of the roof. A moisture survey with core cuts or infrared scanning measures how much is wet.
Yes, with material that matches the roof. TPO is rewelded, EPDM is primed and taped, and metal roofs get new screws and washers, resealed laps, and cut-in panel sections. Mixing incompatible patch materials makes the next repair harder.
Photos of the leak with its location marked inside, the approximate roof age and type, and any past repair records help most. Access details, such as the roof hatch or ladder location, and a contact for rooftop unit service round out the list.
Get a free estimate for the repair, with photos of the opening and a plain note on whether the roof around it is holding up.
Leave a name and number and we will call you back about the roof.
Prefer to talk now? Call (283) 202-7024
